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IZZY CAMMARERI
Fashion Writer

Fashioning a Spectacle: LFW AW’19

Fashioning a Spectacle: LFW AW’19

ORDRE looks at four designers that made a statement on the runways of London Fashion Week.

Considering London is not only the theatre capital of the world but a celebrated workshop for pioneering, experimental art, it should come as no surprise that the schedule’s younger draws have a flair for the dramatic. This season a number of shows at London Fashion Week paid testament to the appeal of the spectacle: designers like Richard Malone, Roberta Einer and Pushbutton sent out striking collections that were equally wacky, wonderful and wearable. Below, ORDRE names four emerging labels that made a statement for AW’19.

Pushbutton

Designer Seung-Gun Park toyed with the idea of “celebrating all things unflattering” for AW’19, dreaming up a series of unusual headpieces made from plates, combs, forks and even lighters. But beneath these showstoppers, Park’s feminine tailored pieces with strong historical references were nothing short of flattering: Elizabethan collars and 14th-century pourpoint jackets were updated with sporty sweatshirt fabrics, while corset tops and puffed sleeves added a regal spirit. A mish-mash of textures and patterns – checkers, polka dots and frills – resulted in a confident and outspoken collection that reaffirmed the label’s signature punk attitude.

Richard Malone

Reflecting on the looming threat of Brexit as an Irish immigrant, for AW’19 Richard Malone looked to simpler times – to the birthday parties of his youth. He sent out a party wardrobe rich in colour and texture that elevated the everyday to a fashion context: he repurposed dog beds into elegant fur stoles, and fashioned frock coats from twill fabrics typically used in school uniforms. Form-fitting silk dresses intricately gathered to contour the body and ladylike suiting in fitting hues of blue, red and white were juxtaposed with punkish laddered knits and hand-painted mohair coats, adding a hint of rebellion.

Roberta Einer

Already touting an ultra-feminine, maximalist aesthetic, this was only Roberta Einer’s second runway show yet it managed to stand out in the packed schedule. Inspired by her grandmother’s youthful, adventurous style, her shimmering hand-embroidered embellishments were seen across cycling shorts, crop tops, thigh-high boots and wrap skirts; multi-coloured tulle evening gowns added a dash of drama. More commercial pieces - including tailored tartan dresses and blazers, patterned satin shirts, laminated silk puffer jackets - balanced out the collection. All in all, it was a playful and sophisticated line-up confirming Einer’s keen eye for modern feminine dressing.

i-am-chen

Inspired by the simultaneous energy and simplicity of Agnes Martin’s minimalist abstract paintings, for her fifth season i-am-chen designer Zhi Chen presented a playful collection bursting with vibrant hues of bubblegum pink, canary yellow and cornflower blue. Dominated by geometric patterns rendered in sleek, angular silhouettes – the result of advanced knit technology – it delivered the perfect marriage of statement dressing and the everyday, all while offering strong commercial viability.

Read the original article on ORDRE News.

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