Sartorial Staples: PFW AW’19
To round off the the final leg of Fashion Month in Paris, designers made a strong case for sartorial wardrobe staples with an edge.
There’s something about Paris that never fails to exude sophistication; reflected in its cuisine, its landmarks and, of course, its fashion scene. Reaffirming this reputation for AW’19, young talents served up sartorial wardrobe staples, focusing on impeccable tailoring with unexpected twists. Below, discover the labels that made an impact in the French capital.
Emerging London-based label Rokh opened Paris Fashion Week with a collection inspired by designer Rok Hwang’s youth living in the forest wastelands of Texas. Oscillating between refined elegance and teenage rebellion, a series of deconstructed office staples – including trench coats, blazers and pencil skirts cut at the seams to reveal layers beneath – offered a gritty edge to classic silhouettes. These were worn over silk dresses and fitted bodysuits laden with paisley, floral or chain-link prints – an ode to ‘80s maximalism offering the perfect tension between playful wearability and sophistication.
Since 2009, Vienna-based designer Petar Petrov has made a name for himself designing elevated essentials. His brand signatures – precision tailoring, fluid silhouettes and delicate balance of materials – did not go astray for AW’19: he focused on elegant suiting with androgynous flair, including cropped blazers with structured shoulders and nipped waists, and army green leather utility trousers. These practical pieces were offset by a succession of delicate devoré midi dresses, leather wrap skirts and silk blouses with exaggerated bow details, adding pared-down femininity to the lineup.
Departing from her usual sports-inclined club culture references, this season Chinese designer Masha Ma showed maturity with a collection that was feminine, polished and versatile. Accessible statement pieces like asymmetric dresses, skirts and double-breasted suit jackets with peplum details were elevated yet casual in striking grid and checkered prints, while flirty satin slip dresses in magenta, emerald and periwinkle gave a youthful, sultry twist to the otherwise grown-up collection – a fitting wardrobe for work or play.